Category: My Blog

There are few things more irritating than paying a ridiculous energy bill while sitting in your own house wondering why you’re still uncomfortable.

I’ve been there.

You adjust the thermostat. You replace the HVAC filter. You start turning lights off behind everyone like you’ve suddenly become your father. You might even stare suspiciously at the thermostat as if it’s personally responsible for draining your bank account.

Then you walk past a window on a cold morning and feel it.

That little stream of cold air.

Ah. We may have found the culprit.

I spoke with the good people at Durham Window Replacement about this issue and this is what I learned.

Old and inefficient windows can make heating and cooling a home much harder than it needs to be. If your energy bills keep climbing, replacement windows designed for energy efficiency may be worth considering.

The important part is choosing the right ones.

Why Old Windows Can Lead to High Energy Bills

A house is essentially a system.

Your heating and cooling equipment is trying to maintain the indoor temperature you selected. Meanwhile, the exterior of the house is constantly fighting against it.

During summer, heat wants to get inside.

During winter, heat wants to escape.

Windows are part of the barrier separating those two environments. When they aren’t performing properly, your HVAC system has to compensate.

Some common problems include:

• Single-pane glass
• Deteriorated window seals
• Poorly insulated frames
• Air leaks around the window
• Cracked or damaged weatherstripping
• Older glass without modern insulating coatings
• Improperly installed windows

You don’t necessarily need to see a giant crack around the window for there to be a problem.

Sometimes it’s subtle.

A room stays noticeably warmer than the rest of the house. The air conditioner seems to run forever in the afternoon. You feel a draft when sitting near a window during winter.

Those little annoyances can be clues.

Double-Pane Replacement Windows Are a Good Starting Point

If your house still has old single-pane windows, double-pane replacement windows can be one of the first options worth investigating.

Instead of one sheet of glass separating your living room from the outdoors, you have two panes with a sealed space between them.

That additional barrier helps reduce heat transfer.

In practical terms, you’re trying to make it harder for outdoor temperatures to influence indoor temperatures.

Simple concept. Important result.

Double-pane windows can also make rooms near large windows more comfortable. That’s something I wouldn’t overlook.

Saving money is great, obviously. But there’s something particularly annoying about having a perfectly nice chair next to a window that nobody wants to sit in because it feels like an Arctic research station every January.

Low-E Glass Can Help Control Heat Transfer

Another feature I’d put high on the list is Low-E glass.

Low-E stands for low emissivity. The glass has a very thin coating designed to help control heat transfer through the window.

The exact configuration can vary depending on the window and climate, but the basic goal is straightforward:

• Reduce unwanted heat entering the home
• Reduce indoor heat escaping when it’s cold
• Improve overall window efficiency
• Help reduce ultraviolet exposure inside the house

This becomes particularly interesting with windows receiving substantial direct sunlight.

I’ve walked into rooms where you could practically identify the sunny side of the house without looking outside. One side feels comfortable. The other feels like someone quietly switched on a heat lamp.

Better glazing can help address that problem.

Gas-Filled Windows Add Another Layer of Insulation

Many energy-efficient replacement windows have argon or another insulating gas between the panes.

No, this isn’t some exciting futuristic technology that will make your neighbors gather around the window in amazement.

They’ll probably never notice.

That’s sort of the point.

The gas between the panes helps reduce heat transfer compared with ordinary air. Combined with multiple panes and Low-E coatings, it becomes another component of the window’s overall insulating system.

Think of energy-efficient windows as a collection of improvements working together rather than one magical feature.

Don’t Ignore the Window Frames

People naturally focus on the glass.

I did too.

Glass is the obvious part of a window, after all. But the frame matters.

Common energy-efficient window frame materials include:

• Vinyl
• Fiberglass
• Composite
• Wood
• Wood-clad materials

Each has different advantages involving cost, insulation, appearance, durability and maintenance.

Vinyl replacement windows are particularly common because they can provide a practical balance between efficiency, maintenance and price.

Fiberglass is another option worth considering when thermal performance and durability are priorities.

Wood can provide excellent aesthetics and insulating properties, but maintenance requirements may be higher.

There isn’t one universally “best” frame.

The right choice depends on the house, climate, budget and how much maintenance you’re willing to tolerate.

Personally, anything that adds another annual maintenance ritual immediately loses a few points with me. I’ve already got enough things around the house waiting to be fixed. 😅

Proper Window Installation Matters More Than People Realize

Here’s where things can go sideways.

You can buy an excellent energy-efficient replacement window and still get disappointing results if it’s installed poorly.

The opening needs to be properly measured, fitted, insulated and sealed.

Otherwise, you’re basically buying an expensive energy-efficient window and leaving an inefficient gap around it.

Not exactly a winning strategy.

When comparing window replacement companies, I’d pay attention to the installation process rather than focusing exclusively on the window brand.

Ask about:

1. How the existing windows are removed
2. How measurements are taken
3. How gaps around the new window are insulated
4. How exterior openings are sealed
5. What installation warranty is provided
6. How damaged surrounding materials are handled

The workmanship is part of the product.

Look at the Whole Window, Not Just One Feature

Shopping for replacement windows can quickly turn into alphabet soup.

U-factor. SHGC. Low-E. Argon. Triple-pane. Spacer systems.

It gets technical surprisingly fast.

For homeowners trying to reduce high energy bills, I’d keep the objective simple.

You want a window system appropriate for your climate and home that limits unwanted heat transfer and air leakage.

That means considering the entire package:

• Glass configuration
• Frame construction
• Low-E coatings
• Insulating gas
• Air leakage performance
• Installation quality
• Local climate

A fancy feature doesn’t compensate for weaknesses everywhere else.

When Energy-Efficient Replacement Windows Make the Most Sense

I wouldn’t tell someone to replace perfectly functional windows solely because their electric bill increased one month.

High energy bills can have plenty of causes.

Window replacement becomes more compelling when several problems start stacking up.

For example:

• Your windows are old or single-pane
• You regularly feel drafts
• Certain rooms are difficult to heat or cool
• Window frames are deteriorating
• Seals between panes have failed
• Condensation appears between glass panes
• Your HVAC system runs excessively
• Rooms with large windows become noticeably hot
• You’re already planning exterior renovations

At that point, you’re not solving one tiny problem.

You’re improving part of the home’s thermal envelope.

Choosing Replacement Windows for High Energy Bills

If reducing heating and cooling costs is the priority, I’d start by comparing energy-efficient replacement windows with double-pane or triple-pane glass, Low-E coatings, insulated frames and professional installation.

Then look at the house itself.

Which windows receive the most sunlight?

Which rooms are uncomfortable?

Where do you notice drafts?

How old are the existing windows?

Those answers can tell you much more than simply grabbing the most expensive window available.

And that’s really the lesson here.

Energy-efficient window replacement isn’t about buying the fanciest piece of glass someone can sell you. It’s about identifying where your home is losing efficiency and choosing replacement windows designed to address those weaknesses.

Because if I’m going to spend money every month heating and cooling my house, I’d prefer that conditioned air actually stay inside.

Seems like a fairly reasonable request.

For years, I thought owning gold inside an RRSP sounded more complicated than it probably needed to be.

I understood the basic appeal of gold. You buy something tangible. You know what you own. There is no quarterly conference call, no CEO promising that next year will be transformational, and no complicated business model you have to pretend you understand while staring at a 73-page annual report.

But putting physical gold inside an RRSP?

That sounded like the point where somebody in a suit would slide a stack of paperwork across the table and ruin my afternoon.

Once I started digging into it, though, I realized the basic idea is surprisingly straightforward. The details matter, certainly, but the motivation behind it is simple.

Some Canadian investors don’t just want exposure to the price of gold.

They want exposure to actual gold.

And there is a difference.

Why Physical Gold in an RRSP Appeals to Some Canadians

When people say they “own gold,” they can mean several different things.

They might own:

• Shares of a gold mining company
• A gold-focused mutual fund
• A gold ETF
• A precious metals fund
• Physical gold bullion

Those investments can all provide some connection to gold, but they’re not interchangeable.

A mining company, for example, is still a company.

Management matters. Operating costs matter. Fuel prices matter. Labour problems matter. The jurisdiction of the mine matters. A CEO can make a terrible acquisition and turn what looked like a clever gold investment into an expensive lesson in humility.

Ask me how I know that investments don’t always behave according to the neat little thesis I had in my head. 😅

Physical gold is different.

A gold bar doesn’t have employees. It doesn’t issue earnings guidance. It doesn’t dilute shareholders by issuing another pile of stock.

It’s simply gold.

For Canadians who specifically want direct gold exposure as part of their retirement savings, that simplicity can be attractive.

The Appeal of Direct Gold Exposure

I tend to think about investments in terms of what job they’re supposed to perform.

If I’m buying an equity investment, I want growth.

If I’m holding cash, I want liquidity and stability.

If I’m considering physical gold, I’m generally looking at it as a diversification asset and a way of holding part of my wealth outside the traditional corporate and financial ecosystem.

That distinction matters.

Imagine you’ve built a retirement portfolio containing Canadian stocks, U.S. stocks, bonds, cash and perhaps some real estate exposure.

On paper, it looks diversified.

Then you look closer.

Almost everything is still ultimately denominated in dollars and tied in some fashion to financial markets.

That’s where some investors start considering gold.

Not because they’re predicting financial Armageddon next Tuesday.

Not because they’re planning to bury coins beside the tomato plants.

They simply want another type of asset in the mix.

Physical gold can potentially fill that role.

Holding Physical Gold in an RRSP Is Not the Same as Keeping Coins at Home

This is where things get a little less exciting and a lot more important.

When people hear “physical gold,” there’s sometimes an assumption that buying gold through retirement savings means receiving a shiny stack of bars that you can put in a home safe.

That’s not how I would think about physical gold inside an RRSP.

Registered retirement accounts come with rules. Eligible investments, custody arrangements, administration and storage all matter.

In other words, you don’t simply withdraw RRSP cash, walk into a bullion dealer, buy whatever gold coin looks coolest and toss it into your sock drawer.

If only retirement planning were that entertaining.

The gold needs to fit within the applicable requirements for an RRSP investment, and the account needs to be structured appropriately.

That’s why I would focus on the entire setup rather than simply asking, “Where can I buy gold?”

The better checklist is:

1. Is the gold eligible for the RRSP?
2. Who administers or holds the investment?
3. How is the bullion stored?
4. What fees will I pay?
5. How easily can the position eventually be sold?
6. What happens when I need to make withdrawals or restructure the account?

Those details are far more important than whether the gold bar looks impressive in a photograph.

Physical Gold vs Gold ETFs in an RRSP

This was the comparison that made the whole subject click for me.

Suppose two investors both believe gold deserves a place in their retirement portfolios.

One buys a gold ETF.

The other chooses eligible physical bullion through an RRSP structure capable of holding it.

Both investors may gain exposure to movements in gold prices, but they’re choosing different vehicles.

A gold ETF may appeal to someone who values:

• Easy trading
• Familiar brokerage accounts
• Straightforward portfolio management
• Quick liquidity
• Simpler administration

Physical gold may appeal to someone who values:

• Direct ownership of bullion
• Tangible asset exposure
• Diversification away from conventional securities
• Allocated or identifiable metal, depending on the arrangement
• A long-term holding approach

Neither approach automatically wins.

It depends on what you’re trying to accomplish.

That’s something I wish investors talked about more often.

People love asking, “What’s the best investment?”

I think the more useful question is, “Best for what?”

Costs Matter More Than I Initially Expected

Physical gold isn’t free to own.

That sounds obvious, but it’s easy to focus so heavily on gold prices that you forget about everything surrounding the investment.

Depending on the arrangement, costs can potentially include:

• Dealer premiums or spreads
• Storage fees
• Custodial or administrative fees
• Transaction fees
• Selling costs

Those expenses deserve attention because they affect your actual return.

If gold rises 10 percent, that doesn’t necessarily mean your personal investment return is exactly 10 percent.

Your purchase price, fees and eventual selling price all matter.

This is one area where I’d resist the urge to rush.

Get the costs in writing.

Then do something revolutionary that I’m occasionally guilty of forgetting myself.

Actually read them.

I Wouldn’t Treat Gold as an All-or-Nothing Decision

This is probably the biggest misconception surrounding gold investing.

You don’t have to choose between owning zero gold and converting your entire retirement portfolio into bullion.

There’s a massive amount of territory between those two extremes.

Someone might decide physical gold should represent a relatively modest portion of retirement assets. Another investor might want a larger allocation because of their objectives, risk tolerance or outlook.

The important part is understanding why you’re buying it.

A simple framework I like is:

• Purpose: Why do I want physical gold?
• Allocation: How much of my portfolio should perform this job?
• Vehicle: Is physical bullion actually preferable to an ETF or another gold investment?
• Cost: What will ownership cost me?
• Exit: How will I eventually sell or distribute the investment?

If I can’t answer those five questions clearly, I’m probably not ready to move money yet.

Who Might Consider Physical Gold in an RRSP?

Physical gold isn’t automatically appropriate for every Canadian with an RRSP.

It may deserve a closer look for investors who:

• Already have substantial exposure to stocks and bonds
• Want greater portfolio diversification
• Prefer owning tangible assets
• Are concerned about long-term currency purchasing power
• Want direct gold exposure rather than mining stocks
• Have a long investment horizon
• Understand that gold prices can rise and fall
• Are comfortable with storage and administrative costs

Someone primarily interested in short-term gold trading might find a more liquid market-based vehicle easier to manage.

Someone looking for long-term direct bullion exposure may see things differently.

Different objective, different tool.

Before Moving RRSP Money Into Physical Gold

I’d slow down before making the actual transaction.

Retirement accounts aren’t the place for improvisation.

Before moving anything, I would want clear answers about:

1. The specific bullion being purchased
2. Its eligibility within the registered account
3. The custodian or trustee arrangement
4. Where and how the gold will be stored
5. Every recurring and one-time fee
6. The process for selling the bullion
7. How future RRSP or RRIF requirements will be handled

I’d also want to understand whether I’m transferring assets properly rather than accidentally creating a taxable withdrawal.

That’s the sort of mistake that can turn an interesting investment idea into a very unpleasant conversation around tax time.

Nobody needs that.

Physical Gold Can Be a Tool, Not a Prediction

What I find most interesting about physical gold in an RRSP is that you don’t need some dramatic prediction about the future to understand its potential role.

You don’t have to believe stocks are about to collapse.

You don’t have to predict runaway inflation.

You don’t have to spend Sunday evening studying monetary charts while everyone else in the house quietly wonders what happened to you.

Physical gold can simply be another asset with different characteristics.

For Canadians who specifically want direct gold exposure within their retirement strategy, holding eligible physical gold through an appropriate RRSP arrangement can be worth investigating.

The key word there is strategy.

Know why you want it.

Understand what you’re buying.

Understand the costs.

Make sure the structure complies with the applicable registered-account rules.

And decide beforehand what role gold is supposed to play in your retirement portfolio.

That’s considerably less exciting than predicting the end of the financial system.

But when retirement money is involved, boring and deliberate isn’t such a bad combination.

For many coin collectors, selling and buying expensive metals with reliable dealers has completely saved them from agitation. Most of the time these dealers have a secured mailing service.

However, if you are going to liner your gold coins or other precious metals or valuables by mail, it will make you concerned, fretful, and awkward until the receiver has conclusively confirmed that he has received the pieces safe and sound. Following are pointers on how securely deliver valuables through parcels including your precious gold coins:

Tip Number 1 – Discover Your Gold Coin Value

Before you visit the post office adjacent to you, you should first ascertain the value of your gold coins. You may check the value of your gold coins either online or by visiting a trustworthy coin dealer.

Tip Number 2 – Make Your Packing List

Making a packing inventory will help you keep your sanity especially if you are sending several orders. Also, it will help you in managing your items effectively. What you need to include in your list are your name, contact number, mailing address, and the complete list of listings. Construct two document copies. For yourself and the one to, you will be sending the valuables.

Tip Number 3 – Select The Category of Delivery Mail Appropriate For Your Items

You can select a flat rate box which allows you to ship anything that fits into the box for a fixed price, anywhere in the US but it should not weigh over 70 pounds. This kind of priority mail is best if you are about to transport more than two coins. But if you are shipping only one or two coins, it is better to go for first-class mail.

Tip Number 4 – Protect Your Pieces and Get a Coin Holder

Coins should be handled with additional care and they should be shipped in a coin holder. This will protect coins from possible scratches and damage. After securing your items, enclose the coin holder with bubble wrap.
Place them into your box and label them correspondingly. Better if you could put the order confirmation if you have sold them online. Include also a note on how to handle the piece.

Tip Number 5 – Insure Your Package

Once you’re in the post office, inquire if the parcel you have selected includes an insurance fee. Although, most registered mails include insurance, better be sure and double-check.

Tip Number 6 – Do Not Disclose The Items And Use Codes

When shipping gold coins or any valuable pieces, you should never put a sign or hint on the outside of the package that you are sending something posh or precious. Instead of stating that you’ll be sending gold or silver, you can use initials to cloak the items. If sending gold coins write G C.

Tip Number 7 – Comprehend the Schedule of Delivery

Always confirm the schedule of delivery so that you will know when to anticipate the delivery to reach the recipient. Registered mails usually take slightly longer than regular mail but they are the most secure method of mailing valuables.

Tip Number 8 – Keep All Receipts and Documents

Keeping all receipts and other documents will not only serve as proof of mailing but also protection if something happens to your package. Besides, if this is your business or frequently ship gold coins, you may want to keep an online database.

Without a doubt, shipping gold coins and other valuable pieces via mail is the most expedient way of delivering pieces to your customer, family, or friend. Following these steps will guarantee you secured shipping employing post. Cheers!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xLI0U06G-Y

Who should buy gold and what percentage should you buy? Not everybody is in a financial place to buy gold. If you are living from paycheck to paycheck, then gold is not for you. If you have some discretionary money that is not earmarked for anything, then you should consider buying some gold and silver. If you are retired and you have wealth that you want to protect, you should buy gold. What percentage should you put into gold? Generally, portfolio managers for years have recommended between 10% and 20% of your total net worth into precious metals. But now, in the middle of 2010, with the economy of the United States completely collapsed, the banks melting down, and the immediate future of the country hanging by a thread, the percentages have changed. The rule now is that whatever you don’t want to lose, you should put it into gold and take possession of it.

So, if you are retired and have substantial wealth or if you want to protect the wealth you have already accumulated, don’t leave anything in financial institutions that you can’t afford to lose. Another general recommendation is that, of the precious metals that you have in your possession, 90% should be in gold, because that is your core of wealth, a very compact store of value. And 10% should be in silver for barter. They each have their purpose: gold is for wealth preservation and silver is for barter. We will cover silver later.

Gold Coins To Avoid – Bullion And Foreign Gold Coins

Here is a little lesson on how to buy gold. There are two ways to buy gold: gold bullion and semi-numismatic U.S. gold coins. When most people think of gold bullion they think about the big bars of gold in Fort Knox. The most common form of bullion today is the one-ounce gold coins, like the American Eagle, the Canadian Maple Leaf, the South African Krugerrand, the Austrian Philharmonic, the Mexican Pesos, the Chinese Panda, etc. These coins are all coins of the realm, but they have never been circulated as legal tender in any of the countries from which they came.

Also considered bullion are any foreign gold coins that have been legal tender in their respective countries, like the British Sovereign, the Swiss Franc, the French Franc, the Finish Markkaas, the German Marc, etc. These coins, regardless of their age or condition, are also considered bullion in the eyes of our government. Why? 49 countries around the world allow their citizens to hold their own countries’ numismatic gold and silver coins without fear of confiscation if they are in good enough condition to be considered collector items. It is a way to preserve the country’s history in coin form. But they do not exempt other countries’ old gold or silver coins, just their own. America is no different. In the United States, our government only exempts old U.S. gold and old and silver coins, not foreign coins.

To buy Gold and silver locally in Durham Region look to Durham Precious Metals.

Most of the people who buy bullion coins are speculators, people who buy it cheaply, and when gold goes up, they quickly sell it and make money. My clients are not speculators. They are interested strictly in wealth preservation. The worst part about bullion, however, is that it is confiscated. The government can take it any time they want, and it will pay you $50 an ounce in paper money for every ounce they take from you. The $50 face value is stamped right on the face of the coin, and that is why it is there.

Let this Introduction to Gold show you why

An introduction to gold should explain why one of the least understood concepts or commodities in our Western society is gold and precious metals. In almost every country in the world, gold is revered, prized, and sought after. Throughout history, a king’s or a country’s wealth was measured in the amount of gold in his storehouse or treasury. Look at the Asian countries…India…ancient Egypt…the Spanish conquest for gold in the New World…the Aztecs…the many storied sunken ships full of gold coins over the centuries. A person’s wealth is measured in terms of how much gold he or she possesses. As an introduction to gold, central banks around the world hold tons of gold in their vaults as a backing for their paper currency. The Euro is currently backed by 15% in gold, and they are talking about possibly increasing it to 30%. The Federal Reserve has tons of gold in its vaults. But of course, that is not government gold, it is private gold. Gold has maintained its purchasing power throughout its 5,000-year track record, as the world’s only monetary metal. Gold is financial security. For years, portfolio managers have recommended a minimum of 10% to 20% of one’s total net worth in gold as a hedge against inflation or as a safety net if our paper money system collapses.

 

But why don’t we hear anything positive about an introduction to gold in the media? Why is it almost impossible to get any information about gold? Is there a conspiracy to withhold this information from the American public? Why is it important to own gold? Who should own gold? What kind of gold is best for me? What is the best place to store gold? How can I educate myself about gold and gold companies so I don’t get burned? Are there some general principles on how to buy gold? How can I avoid the scams or rip-off techniques of unscrupulous coin companies? Which companies are the worst scam artists? If you’ve been scammed by a coin company, is there any recourse? We will be answering all these questions and more in this paper. We will also tell a few tragic stories of people who, lacking a proper introduction to gold, have fallen into the hands of these gold company charlatans.

Check out Cash For Gold Oshawa for a reliable local vendor in Oshawa.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNnbZy_jv68